
Cano Negro Wildlife Refuge
I awoke, startled by barking at the Tocu Tent Camp in Costa Rica’s Cano Negro Wildlife Refuge. I could hear a strange husky barking and it was getting closer. I opened my eyes, dawn light filtered through the tent flap.
More barking. I peered through the flap where orange and yellow tropical flowers were bright points in the mist. More barking. Then I realized. A pack of howler monkeys were coming closer. Swinging through the tree canopy, their long prehensile tails enabling great leaps.
How many were in the pack? Fierce males? Mothers with babies clinging tightly onto black fur, wide eyed at the early morning adventure?

Soaring Kapok Trees Dense Canopy
Yesterday I glimpsed howler monkeys in the distance, in the dense canopy of kapok trees. Hanging upside down as they reached for tender green buds. They were shy, with bright eyes under bushy eyebrows. I tried to photograph them as they paused suspended by their impossibly long black tails. But they were off again. The group moving rhythmically in unison through the branches. Then they were gone.


Bath-time for Howler Monkeys?
Barking again. At the refuge there are outdoor bathtubs. Someone thought they had seen a monkey checking out the plumbing. How close would they come? I wondered. Would they be tempted by my tub? Then the barking suddenly stopped. Were they getting closer? Would they swing into the trees surrounding us?


Sunrise
Dawn was brightening the sky. Early clouds caught the rising sun painting an early glow. The pool reflected apricot. Raindrops on the shiny tropical plants twinkled. But where were the monkeys? There was a dawn chorus of birdsong – some frogs joined in but there were no more guttural husky sounds.
Had the howlers gone? Would I see them today while exploring the jungle in canoes? Would they stop long enough for me to get photographs? Or not?
Was their barking just a tease. An early wake up call? Did I dream the reveille? I pondered, but there was no more barking.



Where in the World?
The Cano Negro Reserve is one of the world’s most important wetlands with a prolific bird and butterfly population. It is home to the Maleku people, Costa Rica’s smallest remaining indigenous tribe. My stay at Tocu Tent Camp was organized by Lindblad Travel


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