Isfahan a Cherished Memory

As the sun dipped behind the turquoise-tiled domes of Isfahan, Iran, I walked into the courtyard of an ancient caravanserai. At the far end poetry was being recited.

I joined those listening with wrapt attention. The lines were rythymic and compelling. Gradually the sky dimmed and the first stars appeared. It was peaceful, a moment to absorb ancient architecture, trickling fountains and the scent of flowers filling lozenge-shaped beds.

Later I discovered the reading was from the book Shahnameh (Book of Kings) written in the 10th century by Persian poet Ferdowsi. A book revered by Iranians.

This, my first night in Isfahan, is a cherished memory.

Overland Journey

The stop at Isfahan was during an overland journey across Central Asia. Several days earlier we crossed the border from Eastern Turkey with its challenging roads and horse drawn carts. The contrast was stark in Iran. The modernization by Shah Reza Pahlavi was instantly apparent. Here were wide modern roads and roadside cafes advertising AC as we headed to Teheran.

The capital was vibrant. There were elegant shops, packed nightclubs, and restaurants offering Caspian Sea caviar. Iranian women held ankle-length black shawls over designer outfits and vertiginous heels as they walked the bustling tree-lined streets. For visitors there were no sartorial restrictions. It was cosmopolitan. I was a guest at the American Club, a hub for Americans and expats. American food was welcome and I shared my travels and overland itinerary before heading to Isfahan the next day.

Isfahan Green Oasis City

First glimpses of Isfahan traveling south were of intricate blue-tiled domes and mosques gleaming in the bright desert sunlight.

The city was transformed by Shah Abbas 1 who born in 1571 and became king aged 16. He promoted trade, economic growth and ushered in a golden age of arts and prosperity. He transformed Isfahan into the capital and redesigned the city with a grand garden square Maidan-i-Shah, treelined avenues, grand mosques and palaces. He built a series of bridges over the River Zagandeh Rud.

A Grand bazaar promoted arts, carpet weaving mirror-work and the silk trade. It was in this bazaar I purchased a minature painted on bone with a cat’s whisker – so I was told. The frame is fine mosaic typical of the city. Today many of the buildings are UNESCO Heritage sites.

The stay in Isfahan, a pause on an overland journey, was also a chance to learn about the city’s ancient history long before Shah Abbas. To see more we visited Persepolis near Shiraz.

Colorful Ancient History

The area dates back to the Bronze age 3,000 BC  It was a center during the reigns of Darius the Great and his son Xerxes. Persia was then the largest empire in history including over 44% of the world’s population and boundaries reaching from Asia to Europe, and Africa.

Isfahan’s Multi-layered History

It is claimed that Isfahan has more layers of history than Venice or Constantinople. That may well be. In 1050 AD the Seljuks transformed the desert oasis city into the capital of the Persian empire. Mongols later attacked it and Tamerlane‘s 1387 seige was devastating.

The city was also a crossroad on the Ancient Silk Road between Afghanistan and Bagdad. Caravanserai were included in the city plan to provide hospitality to travelers whose camel caravans traveled 25 miles a day.

It was at one of these caravanserais, now a hotel, where I heard the lines of poetry being recited.  The large courtyard that so entranced me on my first evening was once a place for travelers to swop tales, sell goods and warn of problems on the road ahead. It was also a rest stop for man and beast.  

Memories Of Another World and Time

The stay in Isfahan and that journey took place at another time and in another world. In 1984 with the aid of Chinese technicians a nuclear plant, built close to the city is now a target.

As I write, UNESCO world heritage sites including the Chehel Sotoun Palace which was used for diplomatic receptions and Shah Abbas’ palace, Ali Qapu – have been hit by missiles. The damage is serious and the future uncertain for the city and residents..

An aunt told me when I was a small child, “It’s important to travel when you can.”

Indeed.

Isfahan is a cherished memory.

.

Update:

As I publish this the Wall Street Journal, April 17, has a review of recent damage to historic sites and arts by drones and missiles.