Angela Neal Grove

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You are here: Home / USA / New York / Highlights from Met’s Heavenly Bodies Blockbuster Exhibit

Highlights from Met’s Heavenly Bodies Blockbuster Exhibit

June 30, 2018 By Angela Neal Grove

Heavenly Bodies: Fashion and the Catholic Imagination at thhe Met. Thierry Mugler angel gown from 1985 runway show
Floating above an arch in the Medieval Sculpture Hall is an angel…an evening ensemble in blue and ivory silk with a jeweled “halo”by Thierry Mugler for Mugler. This gown was the finale of the 1985-86 runway show when a model descended from the “heavens” in a cloud of dry ice. Mugler’s signature perfume is “Angel”.

Highlights from Heavenly Bodies

Heavenly Bodies: Fashion and the Catholic Imagination at New York’s Metropolitan Museum of Art is a stunning visual blockbuster. It is controversial, hotly debated and the largest, 60,000 square feet, most ambitious show ever staged by the Met’s Costume Institute.

It occupies two sites, the Met on Fifth Avenue and the Cloisters in Washington Heights, Upper Manhattan. Here are some personal reflections on the Met Fifth Avenue exhibit.

 

Highlights from Met's Heavenly Bodies Blockbuster Exhibit, Lacroix
Christian Lacroix “Gold-Gotha” jacket. Ann Wintour put this jacket on her first cover for American Vogue in September 1988. She paired it with a pair of Guess jeans.

Catholic Imagery and Haute Couture

Curator, Andrew Bolton, wanted to show how the inspiration and influence of Roman Catholic Imagery has shaped the creativity of designers of haute couture.

The organization of the exhibit juxtaposes fashions with religious artworks creating “conversations between art works and fashions.”

Displayed at Fifth Avenue in the Byzantine and medieval art galleries are 150 ensembles of secular clothing.

There is also an exceptional loan of 40 church vestments and papal regalia from the Vatican. These are exquisite richly, embroidered and encrusted with incredible diamonds and jewels. (Loan negotiations took two years and 12 trips to Rome.)

The Vatican loan is displayed in the Met’s Anna Wintour Costume Center galleries where no photography is allowed, thus unfortunately no images of the spectacular Vatican loan are included here.

 

Highlights from Met's Heavenly Bodies Blockbuster Exhibit, Dolce&Gabbana
Mannequins, wearing Domenico Dolce and Stefano Gabbana fall 2014 collection, march along a hallway devoted to Byzantine art. The rich paillette designs on the dresses were inspired by the mosaics of Mary and Saints at Monreale Cathedral, Sicily

 

 

Galleries of Medieval and Byzantine Art

I appoached the heart of the exhibit from the Met’s central staircase along a hallway of Byzantine art.

Here was a row of five marching mannequins wearing glittering mosaic-inspired Dolce&Gabbana dresses, a prelude to the drama beyond.

 

 

Highlights from Met's Heavenly bodies blockbuster Exhibit, Balanciaga
Gallery high above the hall has a “choir” of mannequins dressed in choral robes from 1964 designed by Cristobal Balenciaga.

 

Church-Inspired Medieval Sculpture Hall.

Highlights from Met's Heavenly bodies Blockbuster Exhibit, Lacroix
Christian Lacroix wedding ensemble 2009-10

 

The Byzantine gallery hallways lead to the Medieval Sculpture Hall which was inspired by the traditional layout of a European church with a nave, central aisle and two side aisles.

Here ancient and modern seem to merge and compliment one another. A 20th century dress shown by a medieval tapestry, and a case of Chanel and Verdura jewelry with crosses which were inspired by Byzantine art.

Michael Nyman‘s solem processional-style music, Time Lapse, was playing in this hall.  (It was used in the John Galliano movie). I thought it added a perfect element though Jason Farago writing in the New York Times did not. This is a controversial exhibition which creates dialogue.

 

HB Verdura cuffs
Maltese Cross Cuff Bracelets, 1935. Cuffs by Duke Fulco di Verdura for Gabrielle Chanel. White enamel, 18-karat gold, emerald, amethyst, sapphire, aquamarine, citrine and topaz. Crosses inspired by Byzantine art.

 

Fellini’s View

Tucked away in a corner of the Sculpture Hall is a small screen showing scenes from Fellini’s Roma. It features the  “ecclestical fashion show.”  It is pure Fellini genius. I loved watching.  Roma is available on Netflix

 

Highlights from Met's blockbuster exhibit Heavenly bodies, St. Laurent
St. Laurent   statuary vestment for Virgin of El Rocio 1985. From Chapelle Notre Dame de Compassion, Paris

Summing Up

Curator Andrew Bolton worked for years to create this exhibit. His main premise is that the belief system of Roman Catholicism has inspired extraordinary works of art.

I found the creativity of the display enthralling. It is dramatic, compelling, and yes, at the same time, contemplative.

With the exhibit stretching over three venues it inevitably becomes a trinity – an Ecclesiastical Pagent

Planning to Visit?

Heavenly Bodies: Fashion and the Catholic Imagination opened on May 7 with a star-studded glittering annual fundraising gala and runs to October 8, 2018.

 

 

 

 

Highlights from Met's blockbuster exhibit, Heavenly Bodies
Micol Fontana‘s pretino dress which conjures the sober garb of nuns and priests is shown against a medieval tapestry with religious scenes. From her Fall 1956 “Cardinal Line” Pretino translates to “little priest”. Fontana received permission from the Vatican to design the dress. Ava Gardner wore a similar dress in the movie, Barefoot Contessa
Highlights of Met's Blockbuster, Heavenly Biodies. Flying Nun inspired dress by Moschino
House of Moschino: Rossella Jardini. Spring summer ensemble 2014. Known for her tongue-in-cheek theatricality, she recalls the iconic white-winged headdress of the Daughters of Charity popularized by Sally Field in the The Flying Nun

 

Filed Under: Art Happenings, New York

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Comments

  1. Jacques says

    July 3, 2018 at 3:11 pm

    Love this review. A true first hand look into a fascinating concept! Brava!

    • Angela says

      July 9, 2018 at 6:22 pm

      Thank you! Andrew Bolton wanted to create a dialogue – he succeeded – the drama, beauty and concept are amazing.

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