Seismic Shifts in Panama

Sailing south down the Pacific coast I pondered the seismic shifts in Panama. The most definitive was three million years ago. Once the waters of the Pacific and Atlantic Oceans washed freely between North and South America. As continents drifted tectonic plates collided, volcanoes erupted and a chain of islands formed a land bridge.

This bridge changed the world. People, animals and flora moved freely between continents. Wind directions, water currents and salinity altered affecting weather patterns.

Russia and China Look North

Today, with more changes in global weather, the Arctic is becoming navigable year round. Another seismic shift? Will the Northwest Passage and North Sea Route, favored by Russia, rival the Panama Canal? The canal has shipping size restrictions and is affected by drought.

These shifts were on my mind as we sailed into Panama Bay under the Bridge of Americas from the Pacific. We joined skyscraper-high container ships, tankers, car transporters and sleek private super yachts. This was the world of serious global commerce.

We had an afternoon canal transit slot for Miraflores Locks with a pilot guide. Like the other shipping we waited. And we waited. In the distance the new Panama city skyline of towering white skyscrapers gleamed in the afternoon sun. Designed by architect Frank Gehry, the colorful Biomuseo shone like a beacon on the shore

Finally word came, American Secretary of State, Marco Rubio was touring the locks and security caused delay. A portent of political seismic shifts ahead?

It was close to midnight when we approached Gatun locks and entered the first lock chamber. I watched giant gates open, water level rise and mechanical mules drag our ship into place. In the morning we were anchored in Gatun Lake.

Between The Locks, Gatun Lake

Gatun lake enables shipping to pass over the high ismuth of Panama. Excavating down to create a sea level canal was not feasible. The Chagres River was dammed and a lake formed. Hilltops became islands of biodiversity for plants and animals. On Barro Colorado Island the Smithsonian Tropical Research Institute has a station.

We spent a morning on the island with a guide from the Smithsonian, hiking in the jungle high among kapok trees. We spotted monkeys, birds, and butterflies. A surreal experience as huge container ships passed silently below along the shipping channel.

Our slot for the second set of locks was also delayed, so we had another nighttime passage. We woke up the next morning at Gatun Locks, anchored near a vast container storage facility. The canal is a global commerce destination, not just a shipping route. I watched containers were unloaded and stacked.

It was time to disembark at the Port of Balboa and we were warned security was tight. Dogs would be searching for wads of cash as money laundering is rife. Despite warnings departure was easy. Search teams on a relaxed schedule were late, however the dogs did show up on time.

Old Spain and Eastern Bazaars

I had transited the Canal before, in the reverse direction. I recalled Panama City as a colorful mix of old Spain, Eastern bazaars, and American progress. There were neighborhoods of red tiled buildings flower-filled courtyards, colonial ramparts and ruins. It was hot. There were screeching parrots and a cicada chorus. That was then.

This time I was overwhelmed with seismic shifts glimpsed from the ship. Ultra modern architecture jostled skywards. New populations from Lebanon and Venezuela have recently settled Panama, their cultures add color.

Crossing to a New World

For a different dimension in the afternoon I headed to the Biomuseo which opened in 2014. Under Frank Gehry’s iconic primary-colored sail-shaped roof. There are depictions of animals and peoples crossing to a new world. The land bridge/ismuth between continents was formed recently in geologic time. Here the major impact on Western Hemisphere ecology is revealed.

Shown in the interconnecting spaces is Panama’s astonishing biodiversity. Over 10,000 plants and mammals, reptiles, birds and amphibians animals including six species of wild cats thrive in the region.

I stayed until closing time. The Biomuseo visit gave me a perspective which tied my Panama visit together. The formation of the land bridge. Then how man opened up a passage with one of the worlds most incredible feats of engineering. Also the realization of Conquistador Balboa‘s 1513 vision.

Political ramifications, weather patterns, droughts and the astonishing biological diversity are all part of this story. Seismic shifts in Panama will continue.

More about the Panama Canal

To discover more about the Panama canal and its creation I suggest:  Booker Prize winner The Path Between the Seas by David McCullough. It is the story of the men and women who fought to fulfill a 400-year-old dream.