Spring is in the air along the Ancient Silk Road. When I set out in April 2010 my journey and spring unfolded together like a magical patchwork quilt. Snows were receding from the high Central Asian steppe. Newborn yaks were attempting first ungainly steps. In the Ferghana Valley mulberry leaves were being gathered to feed a hungry new crop of … [Read more...]
6.2 Earthquake in Asia’s Ferghana Valley
The Ferghana Valley was settled by Alexander the Great and chronicled by Pliny who wrote of the legendary horses said to sweat blood Recently a 6.2 earthquake rumbled through the Ferghana Valley killing 14 souls and disrupting the lives of hundreds. The news made a mere mention on page 10 of the New York Times regional edition. It caught my … [Read more...]
Overland on the Ancient Silk Road
Last Spring I traveled the Ancient Silk Road. It was a long time ambition. I did not know it would change my life. Epiphany Moment The idea of the Silk Road had shimmered on the periphery of my imagination for decades. In Herat, Afghanistan, there is a mausoleum with a unique ribbed dome. Years ago, when Afghanistan was peaceful, I sat … [Read more...]
The Aral Sea: Going, Going, Gone
Once Upon a Time... ...there was a vast lake called the Aral Sea. A Central Asian oasis for centuries, it was the size of Ireland. Fertile farmlands fringed the shores with vineyards and orchards of apricots and pomegranates. Fishing was a prosperous industry and the catch, which included caviar sturgeon, was so plentiful it provided Russia with … [Read more...]
Dateline Moscow – Canny Canines Take the Metro
Moscow's Homeless Dogs There are thousands. The first I saw were a group outside Kazansky Station the day I arrived. An unofficial welcome committee for weary travelers off the 3-day train from Tashkent, Uzbekistan. Most were lounging about, though a couple got up and nonchalantly inspected arriving luggage. Moscow-style sniffer dogs. Later I … [Read more...]
