Zambezi Reflections

The noctural snorting hippo chorus, spellbinding pastel pink sunrises and awesome wildlife are among my most vivid Zambezi reflections.

The place was Chiawa in Lower Zambezi National Park, Zambia. This camp looks across the water to Zimbabwe. In between are sandbanks where crocodiles lurk, long legged birds fish and elephants wade.

Zambezi Reflections, cluster of hippo in the Zambezi river.//Photo:A.N.Grove — Hippo in the Zambezi. The far bank is Zimbabwe

Out of Africa

Zambezi Reflections: Lion footprint, Chiawa, Zambia. Seen on a safari bush drive. This gives an indication of where the lions may be hiding.//Photo: A.N.Grove — Tracking lion on a bush drive, fresh prints indicate where lions may be resting.

Days begin at Chiawa in a civilized fashion. A tray of tea is delivered at sunrise followed by breakfast around the campfire. An Out of Africa touch was oatmeal with whiskey. I had it each morning, very warming.

Zambezi Reflections: Lion cubs at Chiawa camp, Zambia.//Photo:A.N.Grove — Lion cubs from one of the prides at Chiawa. The Lower Zambezi is rich in wildlife. Safari vehicles are restricted, 2 or max of 3 per animal sighting is less stressful for wildlife.

Into the Bush

This was a prelude to morning bush-drives. We piled into Safari vehicles cameras at the ready, waiting to see what would unfold.

Followed lion tracks one morning our guide pointed to resident male lions. He also spotted another sitting alone clearly scoping out the scene. A refugee, he said, who had recently swum across the river from Zimbabwe and had not yet been accepted by the other lions or prides.

Afternoon on the River

Exploring the river and the sandbanks by pontoon or canoe was another option. Edging up to the sand bars another world unfolds in the long grass. Goliath herons, egrets, kingfishers and yes, the yellow gaze of crocodiles.

Zambezi Reflections: Crocodile slips into the water from the banks of the Zambezi River, Zambia.//Photo:A.N.Grove — Crocodile slipping into the waters of the Zambezi River. I was too nervous to explore the river in a canoe.

One afternoon the pontoon shuddered and heaved as a hippo came up underneath. I wish I had gone out in a canoe, but at the time was nervous about crocs and hippo. An opportunity missed.

A Leap of Leopards

I decided to take a walking safari. We set off into the bush to find a good spot. Then the guide got an urgent radio message. A leopard was in a mahogany tree with a fresh kill. We changed course.

Arriving we could see impala legs hanging from the branches and hear the crunch of teeth on bone. Focusing our cameras a drama unfolded. Another leopard appeared and sat beneath the tree hoping for scraps. Tiring of waiting it headed for the tree trunk and began to climb. Then the law of the jungle ensued as these two cats snarled and bared teeth. Eventually the interloper retreated. So much for my walking safari.

Zambezi Reflections: Mother and baby elephant wander through Chiawa Camp, Zambia a few feet from the River Zambezi.// Photo:a.N.Grove — Mother and young elephant wandering through Chiawa camp as we were having our tea before afternoon safaris.

Chiawa Life

Zambezi reflections of the four days at Chiawa are a glorious kaleidoscope. We returned to the tree with the leopard kill and eventually saw five leopard. Each with unique markings, each National Geographic cover-worthy.

The leap of leopoards was a highlight. So was everything else at the camp which is owned by the Cummings family. We had great food and wonderful camaraderie at candlelit dinners overlooking the river. I loved sundowners on our afternoon/evening drives, holding a glass with ice clinking as elephant plodded by. All very Out of Africa. My Zambezi reflections have a golden glow.