Searching for Shangri-La

The northwest corner of Yunnan Province is one of China’s most beautiful and wild regions. Here the Mekong, Yangtze and Salween rivers tumble from the Tibetan Plateau carving jaw-dropping gorges twice the depth of the Grand Canyon. Mt. Kawagebo soars to 22,000ft, crowning ranges of mountains where more than one hundred tower over 16,000ft. This area may also be the inspiration for Shangri-La, the fictitious paradise in James Hilton‘s bestseller, Lost Horizon.

Far away, at the very limit of distance, lay range upon range of snow-peaks, festooned with glaciers and floating, in appearance, upon vast levels of cloud. – Lost Horizon by James Hilton

When asked if I would be interested in exploring the area, Three Parallel Rivers Park, the answer was resoundingly affirmative. Even better, the plan was to stay at traditional Tibetan lodges run by Songtsam where comfort is combined with authenticity. I booked my flights.

Fast Forward to Tacheng

The chatter of birds from the gardens beneath my window interrupted my dreams. There may have been a rooster call, but these were the only sounds in the stillness of the valley. We were at Tacheng a remote hamlet on a tributary of the Yangtze River.

At nearly 10,000 ft the air was fresh and clear and the previous night the stars shone with impossible brilliance. Were we already in Shangri-La? A whim reinforced when it was suggested we visit a remote monastery and circumnavigate an ancient mountain-top Buddhist pilgrimage route.

Harvest Time

The visit had an unexpected twist. We stopped in a small village to watch corn gathered for winter. We met an energetic 84-year-old Tibetan woman. Our guide translated and explained she had a nephew who was a monk at the monastery and she would love the chance to see him. Could she join us for the journey up the mountain?

Our new friend climbed into our 4 x 4 and as we wound up the narrow bumpy switchbacks she sat in the back murmering Buddhist incantations. As I peered out of the window at the chasm below I felt blessed by her presence. She met her nephew while we wandered round the old complex, then she decided to join us on the pilgrimage trail. A devout Buddhist her husband had taken her to Lhasa and other sacred places she told our guide.

Obviously used to the 10,000 ft altitude than we she energetically strode on ahead as we huffed and puffed to keep up. Like the residents of Shangri-La who have remarkable longevity I mused.

The paved trail was festooned with prayer flags and clusters of incense were placed on the mossy bank. The scent mingled with that of the pine trees. There was a sheer drop on one side down to the Yangtze below.

We said goodby to our friend when we returned to the village after seeing her home and meeting her daughter. Memories of that morning will remain a golden thread in the tapestry of our journey.

Ginger Tea and Yak Hotpot

Returning to the lodge we were welcomed with sweet ginger tea. Tibetan slippers were waiting for us to wear on the polished wooden floors. Dinner that night was a local treat, Tibetan hot pot with wafer thin yak meat which we cooked in the broth.

Tomorrow we would continue our quest for Shangri-La, leaving the Yangtze and crossing mountains to the Mekong. Destination, Cizhong, where French missionaries built a church and vineyard in 1887. The vines are still producing wine and are the oldest in China.

According to Maps.me, the invaluable app we followed, along with My altitude, we would be a mere 50 miles from the border of Myanmar. Our final destination 8 days out was the town of Shangri-La – would that really be James Hilton’s mythical realm of enlightenment and harmony? Would we find such a place? Stay tuned….